Acne’s FW collection follows on from their summer show perfectly - retaining the neutral colours and colour blocking that prevailed but giving it a stylish twist perfect for winter. This being a winter collection, layering and knitwear are in heavy use but in Acne’s usual style nothing is too over the top.
The colour palette though still muted features different shades that would still mix well with any of the garments from the summer collection, along with prints inspired by love. My favorite of which being the suit patterned with the tiniest of grey hearts, so minute that it is a detail one would only notice up close.
The fit’s remain casual but overall smart, with blazers and trousers that could mix and match with anything else featured in the show - once again Acne’s collection is all entirely wearable and could literally be picked off the catwalk right into your wardrobe. Once again, I want it all!
Dolce & Gabbana’s FW offering might be my absolute favorite in terms of a coherent collection, everything that appeared onto the catwalk was not only perfectly made, incredibly dapper but also blended perfectly with every other garment on show.
The collection features too many suit/suit combinations for me to even comprehend but each one is perfectly realised in both colour and fit. My personal favorite being the plain black double breasted affair, something that will never go out of style.
The trousers, following the trend seen in other shows this season offer a more relaxed fit something that teams quite well with the fitted blazers giving perfect balance to the outfits Dolce & Gabbana have on show.
One of the parts of the show however, that stands out to me above all else is the underwear Dolce & Gabbana present - something that other designers seem to have forgotten about Dolce & Gabbana have not only embraced, but gotten (for once) perfect. Taking inspiration from vintage undergarments and attire, the items on show have varying styles and fit but each look like they are perfect for not only the winter weather but the exact accessory to the suits shown earlier. All they need to add now are sock suspenders, and I’d be crowning this my favorite collection of them all!
The relaxed trouser fit has been something steadily creeping back into menswear and this has not been ignored in Alexis Mabille’s FW collection, the trousers featured here are a mixture between well fitted but with a looser fit along side unstructured, slouchier fit’s. Where personally I prefer the more fitted of the two, the more unstructured trousers fit in well with the collection and are definitely the way the industry is heading.
The triumph within the offerings on show for me are most certainly the lace inspired shirts, combining the dainty and soft look of lace with some of the harder garments featured - the all white outfit is so incredibly beautiful, I adore anything with lace but this is a complete stand out piece to me from all of the FW shows this year. How well it would wear during the cold winter weather however is something I am unsure of, but either way it is beautiful.
‘Now for something a little less subtle’ Is how I feel about Dries Van Noten’s FW collection, not that this is a bad thing. Teaming classic cut’s with garish print for once actually works with some of the suits in this collection being perfect for those that want to make an impact whilst still looking smart - these definitely aren’t your dads Hawaiian shirts.
The outerwear is an absolute triumph and I would give my right arm for some of the coats featured in the collection, elegant takes on the classic pea coat in plain dark colours stop the overall collection from being too ‘showy’ and I just love it!
Lacroix’s FW collection is very much a lesson in ‘sharp’ dressing that any modern gentleman would be proud of. Classic cut’s that contour the bodies shape perfectly are massively on show, and I can’t help but love the bold lines featuring on shirt plackets as well as collars - helping to add that touch of interest and style to some of the more simple suits on show, proving that sometimes understated is best.
The ‘skinny’ leg has slowly been fading away from recent catwalks and Lacroix’s show is no exception, with the suit trousers having a more relaxed fit whilst still remaining dapper - the suits on show would not be out of place on ‘Mad Men’ and that’s just how I like my suits.
